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The Fashion of Mad Men

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Mad Men Synopsis

Mad Men is a period drama set in New York City during the 1960s.[1] The AMC series released in 2007 is based in an advertising agency, Sterling Cooper.[2] The main character's include the head of secretary Joan Holloway, creative director Donald Draper, account executive Pete Campbell, Don’s wife Betty Draper and secretary Margaret ‘Peggy’ Olson .[3] Some of the themes presented include gender, racism, cultural memory and nostalgia experienced within both public and private spheres.[4] The show has gained critical acclaim, winning four Golden Globes and fifteen Emmys.[5] It has also had an influence on contemporary culture, inspiring fashion, furniture and academia.[6]

Mad Men AMC

Context: 1950s, 1960s and 1970s

Mad Men is set during the 1950s, 1960s and 1970s.[7] Scenes depict issues of smoking, drinking, sexism, adultery, homophobia and racism .[8] During this time views of women were based on what is called the “The Cult of Domesticity” which encouraged women to retract from their roles in the workforce during the war to the housewife, which became the standard for womanhood by the early twentieth century.[9] The values of womanhood were “piety, purity, domesticity and submissiveness” and women were expected to uphold such values.[10]

During the 1960s, there was an increase in jobs due to economic wealth, women were able to join the work force as the men were already working.[11] When women joined the workforce they took part in occupations such as a secretary, nurse or teacher.[12] As women began to make up part of the workforce, they obtained more power and freedom.[13] Also during this time was the the introduction of the oral contraceptive pill, allowing the sexual freedom of many women and enabled women to work as single women.[14] Additionally, both the Title VI and the Equal Pay Act of 1963 were introduced enabling working women rights and recognition in the workplace.[15] Moreover, The Feminine Mystique, a book written by Betty Friedan was released which had a “profound effect on the 1960s American society” and contributed to the emergence of second wave feminism.[16]

As well as this, women who had given up jobs and education for marriage were beginning to realise their lack of freedom.[17] Women began to rebel against the traditional image of the housewife and see through the “myths of the feminise mystique”.[18]

Main Characters: Betty, Peggy and Joan thumb|Peggy and Joan in Mad Men

Each character represents a particular type of social and political status of women during the 1950s, 1960s and 1970s.[19] Betty embodies the “quintessential dependent housewife”.[20] She gives up her college education and job as a model in Manhattan to marry Don, become a mother and a housewife in the suburbs.[21] Betty’s character represents the struggle of the housewife who as she describes suffers from the “problem that has no name” after realising their lack of freedom.[22] As the series progresses it becomes clear that Betty realises her unprotected and isolated position.[23] Betty’s character chooses to divorce Don and marry a politician.[24] However, as she remarries she is once again alone in a domestic household.[25] Thus, even though she rebels, she does not change her situation as Peggy does.[26]

The character of Peggy represents the modern woman as she takes matters into her own hands in both her public and private life.[27] Peggy is able to rebel against traditional expectations of femininity and beauty by using her brains rather than her appearance.[28] She is able to exist not restricted by strict gender lines which enables her career advancement.[29] Peggy experiences the greatest advancement of all the Mad Men main characters.[30] She develops from a “candid, sweet and innocent girl” to a woman who chooses to understand the ad agency in her own way and resist flirting with her boss to gain success.[31] In order to do so she does not let the prospect of domesticity, marriage or motherhood stop her, noted especially as she gives her child away.[32]

The character of Joan also represents the role of women but one which is very different from Peggy.[33] Joan functions as a kind of “Marilyn” who wants to be a “Jackie”.[34] Joan is portrayed as an office manager who seems to “have the boys under control” due to her sexual appeal.[35] Joan uses her body to achieve what she wants.[36] However, this freedom changes when she marries Dr. Greg Harris which leads to her to a domestic domain where she feels insecure and fragile.[37] Even though eventually Joan divorces Harris and advances in her career by gaining a five percent partnership stake in the company, she is restricted by her role as “Marilyn” as she has to sleep with someone in order to do so. [38][39] thumb|Joan Holloway in Mad Men

Fashion Moments in the show and what they represent

Joan

Joan’s fashion is representative of her role as the “Marilyn”.[40] Her style alludes to the pin up style which consisted of “black winged eyeliner, full red lips and filled in eyebrows with high arches.”[41] Joan accentuates her waist with high heels and fishnet stockings.[42] This is seen in Season 1, episode 2 “Ladies Room” where she wears a tight fighting beige skirt and beige top.[43] This outfit ultimately accentuates her waist and demonstrates the way in which she uses her clothing to assert power within the work place.[44]

She additionally wears tight fitting pencil skirts which accentuated her femininity.[45] However, as Joan desires to be taken more seriously in her role her style changes.[46] She begins to adopt a more tailored look which consisted of skirted business suits in order to assert her “own authority and power”.[47] This is evident in Episode 13 of Season 6, where Joan wears a tailored suit, with Victorian like frills.[48] Thus, demonstrating her desire to obtain power through her work rather than her sexual appeal in the work place.[49]

Peggy thumb|Peggy Olson in Mad Men Peggy’s initial attire represents her innocence as well as her unwillingness “to be subjected as a mere object of desire to the men.”[50] It can be seen in Season One that she chooses not to wear makeup and opts for an outfit that does not accentuate her figure.[51] Peggy Olson in Mad Men In these outfits her clothing consists of earth tones and plaid patterns.[52] However, Peggy quickly asserts her own sense of professional style as she wears “a matching tailored jacket and skirt.[53] This is shown in Season 6 Episode 12 when Peggy wears a strong suit which finds a balance between “masculinity and femininity”.[54]

She opts for brighter colours and sometimes different styles such as a pantsuit worn in the final episode of Season 7.[55] Such outfits become reflective of the adaption by working women of male-dominated working environments.[56]

Betty

Betty’s style is representative of the fashion of housewives during the 1950s.[57] Betty’s style showcases women’s style consisting of poodle skirts, modest blouses with ribbons tied in their hair.[58] This can be seen in Season 1 Episode 4.[59] thumb|Betty Draper in Mad Men However, despite the fashion revolution of the 1960s which saw fashion become more daring and diverse, Betty still chooses to dress in the style of the early 1950s.[60] Such as during Season 4 where she wears poodle skirts and continues to curl her hair in the style of the 1950s.[61] Thus, representing her inability to fully become free of the role of housewife.[62]

  1. Women and Work in Mad Men/ Korhonen, M. (2016). Women and Work in Mad Men (Master’s thesis, University of Oulu, Finland. Retrieved from http://jultika.oulu.fi/files/nbnfioulu-201606022141.pdf
  2. Women and Work in Mad Men/ Korhonen, M. (2016). Women and Work in Mad Men (Master’s thesis, University of Oulu, Finland. Retrieved from http://jultika.oulu.fi/files/nbnfioulu-201606022141.pdf
  3. Women and Work in Mad Men/ Korhonen, M. (2016). Women and Work in Mad Men (Master’s thesis, University of Oulu, Finland. Retrieved from http://jultika.oulu.fi/files/nbnfioulu-201606022141.pdf
  4. Women and Work in Mad Men/ Korhonen, M. (2016). Women and Work in Mad Men (Master’s thesis, University of Oulu, Finland. Retrieved from http://jultika.oulu.fi/files/nbnfioulu-201606022141.pdf
  5. Bacon. K (2012). Memories by Mad Men: Cultural Memory, Television, and early 1960s Domesticity (Major Research Paper). McMaster University, Canada.
  6. Bacon. K (2012). Memories by Mad Men: Cultural Memory, Television, and early 1960s Domesticity (Major Research Paper). McMaster University, Canada.
  7. Bacon. K (2012). Memories by Mad Men: Cultural Memory, Television, and early 1960s Domesticity (Major Research Paper). McMaster University, Canada.
  8. Bacon. K (2012). Memories by Mad Men: Cultural Memory, Television, and early 1960s Domesticity (Major Research Paper). McMaster University, Canada.
  9. Bacon. K (2012). Memories by Mad Men: Cultural Memory, Television, and early 1960s Domesticity (Major Research Paper). McMaster University, Canada.
  10. Bacon. K (2012). Memories by Mad Men: Cultural Memory, Television, and early 1960s Domesticity (Major Research Paper). McMaster University, Canada.
  11. Women and Work in Mad Men/ Korhonen, M. (2016). Women and Work in Mad Men (Master’s thesis, University of Oulu, Finland. Retrieved from http://jultika.oulu.fi/files/nbnfioulu-201606022141.pdf
  12. Women and Work in Mad Men/ Korhonen, M. (2016). Women and Work in Mad Men (Master’s thesis, University of Oulu, Finland. Retrieved from http://jultika.oulu.fi/files/nbnfioulu-201606022141.pdf
  13. Women and Work in Mad Men/ Korhonen, M. (2016). Women and Work in Mad Men (Master’s thesis, University of Oulu, Finland. Retrieved from http://jultika.oulu.fi/files/nbnfioulu-201606022141.pdf
  14. Women and Work in Mad Men/ Korhonen, M. (2016). Women and Work in Mad Men (Master’s thesis, University of Oulu, Finland. Retrieved from http://jultika.oulu.fi/files/nbnfioulu-201606022141.pdf
  15. Women and Work in Mad Men/ Korhonen, M. (2016). Women and Work in Mad Men (Master’s thesis, University of Oulu, Finland. Retrieved from http://jultika.oulu.fi/files/nbnfioulu-201606022141.pdf
  16. Women and Work in Mad Men/ Korhonen, M. (2016). Women and Work in Mad Men (Master’s thesis, University of Oulu, Finland. Retrieved from http://jultika.oulu.fi/files/nbnfioulu-201606022141.pdf
  17. The 1950’s and 1960’s and the American Woman: the transition from the “housewife” to the feminist/ Martins Lamb, V. (2011). The 1950’s and the 1960’s and the American Woman: the transition from the “housewife” to the feminist. HAL: History, 1-94. Retrieved from https://dumas.ccsd.cnrs.fr/dumas-00680821/document
  18. The 1950’s and 1960’s and the American Woman: the transition from the “housewife” to the feminist/ Martins Lamb, V. (2011). The 1950’s and the 1960’s and the American Woman: the transition from the “housewife” to the feminist. HAL: History, 1-94. Retrieved from https://dumas.ccsd.cnrs.fr/dumas-00680821/document
  19. Bacon. K (2012). Memories by Mad Men: Cultural Memory, Television, and early 1960s Domesticity (Major Research Paper). McMaster University, Canada.
  20. Bacon. K (2012). Memories by Mad Men: Cultural Memory, Television, and early 1960s Domesticity (Major Research Paper). McMaster University, Canada.
  21. Bacon. K (2012). Memories by Mad Men: Cultural Memory, Television, and early 1960s Domesticity (Major Research Paper). McMaster University, Canada.
  22. Bacon. K (2012). Memories by Mad Men: Cultural Memory, Television, and early 1960s Domesticity (Major Research Paper). McMaster University, Canada.
  23. Sanchez Renieblas, S. (2012). Women at Home and Women in the Workplace in Matthew Weiner’s Mad Men. Investigaciones Feministas, 3(3), 33-42.
  24. Sanchez Renieblas, S. (2012). Women at Home and Women in the Workplace in Matthew Weiner’s Mad Men. Investigaciones Feministas, 3(3), 33-42.
  25. Sanchez Renieblas, S. (2012). Women at Home and Women in the Workplace in Matthew Weiner’s Mad Men. Investigaciones Feministas, 3(3), 33-42.
  26. Sanchez Renieblas, S. (2012). Women at Home and Women in the Workplace in Matthew Weiner’s Mad Men. Investigaciones Feministas, 3(3), 33-42.
  27. Serediuc. A (2017). Behind Every Mad Man There is a Mad Woman: On Male and Female Representations and Sexuality in AMC’S Mad Men (Research Paper). Ghent University, Belgium.
  28. Serediuc. A (2017). Behind Every Mad Man There is a Mad Woman: On Male and Female Representations and Sexuality in AMC’S Mad Men (Research Paper). Ghent University, Belgium.
  29. Serediuc. A (2017). Behind Every Mad Man There is a Mad Woman: On Male and Female Representations and Sexuality in AMC’S Mad Men (Research Paper). Ghent University, Belgium.
  30. Serediuc. A (2017). Behind Every Mad Man There is a Mad Woman: On Male and Female Representations and Sexuality in AMC’S Mad Men (Research Paper). Ghent University, Belgium.
  31. Sanchez Renieblas, S. (2012). Women at Home and Women in the Workplace in Matthew Weiner’s Mad Men. Investigaciones Feministas, 3(3), 33-42.
  32. Serediuc. A (2017). Behind Every Mad Man There is a Mad Woman: On Male and Female Representations and Sexuality in AMC’S Mad Men (Research Paper). Ghent University, Belgium.
  33. Serediuc. A (2017). Behind Every Mad Man There is a Mad Woman: On Male and Female Representations and Sexuality in AMC’S Mad Men (Research Paper). Ghent University, Belgium.
  34. Serediuc. A (2017). Behind Every Mad Man There is a Mad Woman: On Male and Female Representations and Sexuality in AMC’S Mad Men (Research Paper). Ghent University, Belgium.
  35. Sanchez Renieblas, S. (2012). Women at Home and Women in the Workplace in Matthew Weiner’s Mad Men. Investigaciones Feministas, 3(3), 33-42.
  36. Serediuc. A (2017). Behind Every Mad Man There is a Mad Woman: On Male and Female Representations and Sexuality in AMC’S Mad Men (Research Paper). Ghent University, Belgium.
  37. Sanchez Renieblas, S. (2012). Women at Home and Women in the Workplace in Matthew Weiner’s Mad Men. Investigaciones Feministas, 3(3), 33-42.
  38. Serediuc. A (2017). Behind Every Mad Man There is a Mad Woman: On Male and Female Representations and Sexuality in AMC’S Mad Men (Research Paper). Ghent University, Belgium.
  39. Serediuc. A (2017). Behind Every Mad Man There is a Mad Woman: On Male and Female Representations and Sexuality in AMC’S Mad Men (Research Paper). Ghent University, Belgium.
  40. Serediuc. A (2017). Behind Every Mad Man There is a Mad Woman: On Male and Female Representations and Sexuality in AMC’S Mad Men (Research Paper). Ghent University, Belgium.
  41. Kass. A (2011). The 20th Century of American Fashion:1900-2000 (Thesis). Western Connecticut State University, Connecticut.
  42. Kass. A (2011). The 20th Century of American Fashion:1900-2000 (Thesis). Western Connecticut State University, Connecticut.
  43. "Ladies Room". Mad Men. Season 1. Episode 2. 2007-07-26. AMC.
  44. Women and Work in Mad Men/ Korhonen, M. (2016). Women and Work in Mad Men (Master’s thesis, University of Oulu, Finland. Retrieved from http://jultika.oulu.fi/files/nbnfioulu-201606022141.pdf
  45. Women and Work in Mad Men/ Korhonen, M. (2016). Women and Work in Mad Men (Master’s thesis, University of Oulu, Finland. Retrieved from http://jultika.oulu.fi/files/nbnfioulu-201606022141.pdf
  46. Serediuc. A (2017). Behind Every Mad Man There is a Mad Woman: On Male and Female Representations and Sexuality in AMC’S Mad Men (Research Paper). Ghent University, Belgium.
  47. Women and Work in Mad Men/ Korhonen, M. (2016). Women and Work in Mad Men (Master’s thesis, University of Oulu, Finland. Retrieved from http://jultika.oulu.fi/files/nbnfioulu-201606022141.pdf
  48. DeRosa, A. (n.d.). The Season Finale of Mad Men Is Tonight! Look Back At the Best Style Moments. Retrieved from https://www.instyle.com/fashion/mad-men-costume-designer-janie-bryant-season-6-fashion?slide=327133#327133 
  49. Women and Work in Mad Men/ Korhonen, M. (2016). Women and Work in Mad Men (Master’s thesis, University of Oulu, Finland. Retrieved from http://jultika.oulu.fi/files/nbnfioulu-201606022141.pdf
  50. Women and Work in Mad Men/ Korhonen, M. (2016). Women and Work in Mad Men (Master’s thesis, University of Oulu, Finland. Retrieved from http://jultika.oulu.fi/files/nbnfioulu-201606022141.pdf
  51. Women and Work in Mad Men/ Korhonen, M. (2016). Women and Work in Mad Men (Master’s thesis, University of Oulu, Finland. Retrieved from http://jultika.oulu.fi/files/nbnfioulu-201606022141.pdf
  52. Women and Work in Mad Men/ Korhonen, M. (2016). Women and Work in Mad Men (Master’s thesis, University of Oulu, Finland. Retrieved from http://jultika.oulu.fi/files/nbnfioulu-201606022141.pdf
  53. Women and Work in Mad Men/ Korhonen, M. (2016). Women and Work in Mad Men (Master’s thesis, University of Oulu, Finland. Retrieved from http://jultika.oulu.fi/files/nbnfioulu-201606022141.pdf
  54. DeRosa, A. (n.d.). The Season Finale of Mad Men Is Tonight! Look Back At the Best Style Moments. Retrieved from https://www.instyle.com/fashion/mad-men-costume-designer-janie-bryant-season-6-fashion?slide=327133#327133 
  55. Women and Work in Mad Men/ Korhonen, M. (2016). Women and Work in Mad Men (Master’s thesis, University of Oulu, Finland. Retrieved from http://jultika.oulu.fi/files/nbnfioulu-201606022141.pdf
  56. Women and Work in Mad Men/ Korhonen, M. (2016). Women and Work in Mad Men (Master’s thesis, University of Oulu, Finland. Retrieved from http://jultika.oulu.fi/files/nbnfioulu-201606022141.pdf
  57. Kass. A (2011). The 20th Century of American Fashion:1900-2000 (Thesis). Western Connecticut State University, Connecticut.
  58. Kass. A (2011). The 20th Century of American Fashion:1900-2000 (Thesis). Western Connecticut State University, Connecticut.
  59. Mad Style: Betty Draper, S1 Part 1. (2015, March 07). Retrieved October 4, 2018, from https://tomandlorenzo.com/2010/06/mad-style-betty-draper-s1-part-1-2/
  60. Kass. A (2011). The 20th Century of American Fashion:1900-2000 (Thesis). Western Connecticut State University, Connecticut.
  61. Rich, K. (2015, March 27). Mad Men Style Evolution: How Don, Betty, Peggy, Joan, and More Changed Throughout the 60s. Retrieved October 4, 2018, from https://www.vanityfair.com/hollywood/photos/2015/03/mad-men-style-evolution#4
  62. Sanchez Renieblas, S. (2012). Women at Home and Women in the Workplace in Matthew Weiner’s Mad Men. Investigaciones Feministas, 3(3), 33-42.

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