Abraham Sussmann
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Life[edit]
Little is known about Sussmann's origins. He was probably born in 1847 and grew up in a rural town near Lviv (probably Prachnik). He came from a petty-bourgeois but well-educated Jewish milieu. Around 1868 he can be traced for the first time as a clerk in the Palais Rothschild in Frankfurt am Main. At this time, he was apparently not yet of great importance there; he probably had the function of a simple cook. Since the late 1870s, however, his work is mentioned several times in local newspapers, when festivities at the "court" of the Rothschilds are reported. In 1878, he is described as maitre de cuisine. He died in 1891 in Höchst am Main of the Russian flu.[1][2]
Afterlife[edit]
Sussmann's recipes found their way into numerous cookbooks and his dishes were considered exemplary for the (upper) middle-class cuisine of the German Empire. The Poulet Rothschild is considered Sussmann's most famous creation. It represents a variant of the spicy fried chicken, that u. a. in the Jewish cuisine is widespread.[3] The specific form of the dish, which was and is considered particularly exclusive, is characterized by the use of a maish chicken, seasoned with allspice. Instead of the filling of matzos, celerys, and parsley provided in the original version, a filling of pretzel cookies, parsnips, cilantro, onions, oil, garlic, and egg is used. It is occasionally accompanied by porcinis. Pepper, turmeric and cumin season the filling.[4] With the World War I and the Great Depression, the bourgeoisie in Germany went into crisis. Opulent revelry was denigrated as the privilege of "war profiteerss". Due to National Socialism, the Jewish origin of many once-famous dishes was forgotten.[5] Since the late 20th century, a reappraisal and recollection of the work of Abraham Sussmann has been taking place.[6]
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- ↑ Archiv für Frankfurts Geschichte und Kunst (Im Auftrag des Frankfurter Vereins für Geschichte) Vol. 62 (1993): 327.
- ↑ Katrin Ludwig: Ein kleines Ei ist auch ein Huhn. Von jüdischen Feiertagen und Kochtöpfen, Verlag Neues Leben, Berlin 1995, ISBN 978-3-355-01442-7, p. 136ff.
- ↑ Elizabeth Wolf Cohen: Jüdische Küche, Könemann, Cologne 1995, ISBN 978-3-89508-046-3, p. 43.
- ↑ Petra Knorr: Das Jüdische Kochbuch, Komet Verlag, Frechen 2002, ISBN 978-3-89836-228-3, p. 45.
- ↑ Eugenius Wirkowski: Some Jewish Dishes, Interpress Publishing House, Warsaw 1984, ISBN 83-223-2126-0, p. 2.
- ↑ Meir Shalev: "Eß, mejn Kind". In: Gisela Dachs (ed.): Vom Essen. Jewish Almanac of the Leo Baeck Institute. Jüdischer Verlag im Suhrkamp-Verlag, Frankfurt a. Main 2002, ISBN 978-3-633-54181-2, p. 56f.