Anklet

An anklet, also known as an ankle chain, ankle bracelet, or ankle string, is a piece of jewellery designed to be worn around the ankle. Anklets have a long history in South Asia, where they have been worn by women and girls and are known by various names, including pattilu, payal, golusu, and nupur. Archaeological evidence indicates that anklets were also used in ancient Egypt from the Predynastic period; surviving examples include anklets dating to approximately 4400–3800 BCE.

In the United States, anklets became increasingly fashionable during the 20th century, with both casual and more elaborate styles gaining popularity from the 1930s onward. Contemporary anklets can be made from materials such as silver, gold, beads, leather, and other metals, and are worn as fashion accessories. In Western fashion, casual anklets may be worn by people of different genders, while decorative styles are particularly associated with women's jewellery.

In India, anklets have a longstanding cultural and ornamental significance. They are traditionally worn with saris and form part of bridal jewellery in many Indian communities. Styles may range from simple chains to elaborate silver or gold designs, sometimes incorporating small bells. The anklet also has associations with classical Indian dance, where bell-adorned ankle ornaments are used as part of the performer's costume.

In some traditions, anklets worn on both ankles have been connected by a chain that restricts the length of the wearer’s stride. The practice was historically associated with parts of Southeast Asia, where the shortened gait was intended to produce a more traditionally feminine manner of walking. The practice is uncommon today, although similar anklet arrangements are occasionally worn in Western countries. In addition, some people wear permanent anklets, in which the ends of the chain are welded or soldered together rather than secured with a conventional clasp.

History

Egypt

Anklets were worn as jewellery by women in ancient Egypt from at least the Middle Kingdom, with archaeological evidence showing that they were produced in a variety of forms and materials. Surviving examples include anklets made from faience beads, as well as more elaborate pieces incorporating materials such as silver and amethyst. Spacer elements were also used in Egyptian jewellery to keep multiple strands of beads separated, including in anklets.

Anklets were also associated with dancers, as representations of dancers wearing ankle ornaments appear in ancient Egyptian tomb decoration.

During the early 20th century, anklets remained part of traditional Egyptian women's dress. They were commonly known as kholkhal (plural khalakheel) and were particularly associated with women in Alexandria. They could be worn with the melaya leff, a traditional large black outer garment.

In contemporary Egypt, the use of anklets as everyday public adornment among women appears to be less widespread than in earlier periods. Anklets nevertheless remain associated with traditional and performance contexts, including dance.

Europe

Bronze anklets appear in the archaeological record of temperate Europe during the Bronze Age. Examples have been found in regions extending from the Danube and the Alpine foreland through the Rhine basin to the Atlantic coast, as well as along the Rhône. Some were deposited in hoards alongside other bronze objects dating from approximately 1800 BCE onward and have been associated with the Tumulus culture that spread across parts of central and western Europe.

In ancient Greece and Rome, anklets were worn by women and were known by the term periscelis (Ancient Greek: περισκελίς). Classical sources describe the periscelis as an ornament worn around the leg or ankle, and archaeological and artistic evidence indicates that anklets were used by Roman women as well. Ancient literary sources also associate the ornament with women in Roman society.

South Asia

Evidence from the Neolithic and Chalcolithic periods at Mehrgarh indicates that anklets were used in the region during prehistoric times. Archaeologist John Marshall described the famous female figure from Mohenjo-daro, commonly known as the Dancing Girl, as wearing ornaments that included armlets, bangles, and anklets. The Tamil epic Silappatikaram (The Tale of the Anklet), traditionally dated to the early centuries CE, takes its name from the silambu, an anklet central to the story. Its plot concerns Kannaki and her husband Kovalan, who is wrongly executed after attempting to sell one of Kannaki's anklets to a royal goldsmith. The contents of the anklets become crucial in demonstrating Kovalan's innocence.

In Rajasthan, large silver anklets form part of the traditional jewellery associated with several tribal communities. Examples of heavy silver anklets from Rajasthan continue to be produced and worn, reflecting the region's distinctive traditions of tribal jewellery.

Odisha has a distinctive tradition of silver jewellery that includes numerous forms of anklets. Among them is the Paunji Nupur, an elaborate anklet associated with the region and traditionally used in dance and ceremonial contexts. Another type, known as Pa Padma or Padapadma, is designed to extend from the ankle across the foot. The Odisha State Museum's collection includes examples of traditional Pa Padma ornaments. Historical Indian art also shows that ankle ornaments were worn by men as well as women.

The Hindi word payal and Punjabi jhanjar (also spelled jhānjhar) are among the regional terms used for anklets. In Bengali, the term nupur is commonly used for an anklet.

In South Asian traditions, anklets may be worn on either one ankle or both ankles. Their designs, materials, and cultural significance vary considerably between regions and communities.

In Sri Lanka, anklets are also associated with traditional dance. Performers may wear ankle ornaments on both feet, including forms incorporating bells used to accompany movement and rhythm.

As an ornament

Anklets are produced from a variety of materials, including precious metals such as silver and gold, other metals, leather, plastic, nylon, and similar materials.

Metal anklets can broadly be divided into flexible and inflexible forms. Flexible anklets consist of interconnected links or chains that allow the ornament to move freely around the ankle. In India, such anklets are commonly known by names including payal, pajeb, and jhanjhar. Some chain anklets are decorated with small bells, commonly known as ghungroo or similar terms, which produce a characteristic sound when the wearer moves.

Inflexible anklets, sometimes described as stiff anklets, are formed into a fixed shape corresponding to the wearer's ankle. They may be produced by shaping or hammering a sheet of metal into the desired form.

Other anklets

Salangai and ghungroo are forms of ankle bells used by performers of several Indian classical dance traditions. They consist of numerous small metal bells attached to a strap, cord, or other fastening and are worn around the ankles. The bells emphasize the rhythm of the music and make the dancer's footwork audible to the audience. They are commonly associated with Bharatanatyam, Kathak, Kuchipudi, and Odissi, among other Indian dance forms.

Scuba divers may use small ankle weights as part of their weighting and trim systems. These weights can help compensate for buoyancy in the lower part of the body, particularly when diving in a drysuit, where air trapped around the legs and feet can contribute to unwanted upward buoyancy.

Ankle-mounted electronic monitoring devices are also used in some criminal-justice systems to track individuals subject to court-ordered or other forms of supervision. Depending on the system and conditions imposed, such devices may use GPS or other electronic technologies to monitor a person's location and compliance with restrictions.