Craig DeMartino
Craig DeMartino (born September 13, 1965) is a United States professional adaptive (amputee) rock climber. He’s the first amputee to climb El Capitan in fewer than 24 hours ("in a day") via Lurking Fear. He’s the first amputee to climb The Nose on El Capitan in a day, and he led the first all disabled ascent[1] of El Capitan via Zodiac. He’s a two time National Adaptive Climbing Champion, and five-time gold medalist in the Extremity Games. He’s also a two-time Bronze Medal winner in the IFSC Paraclimbing World Championships. He works as a professional speaker. In 2013 he co-authored his autobiography After the Fall: A Climber's True Story of Facing Death and Finding Life.[2]
He’s a father of two and lives in Loveland, Colorado, with his wife Cyndy Tillman DeMartino.
Surviving a 100ft Ground Fall[edit]
On July 21, 2002, DeMartino fell to the ground[3] from the top of Whiteman (5.11c), a 100-foot climb at Sundance Buttress in Lumpy Ridge, Colorado. His accident occurred when his belayer (wrongly assuming DeMartino planned to rappel) took him off belay. When DeMartino hit the ground, he sustained massive injuries, including shattering both heels, and compound fractures in both ankles, breaking his back and neck, and puncturing a lung. The impact also caused him to develop a nerve disorder. After many failed surgeries, He chose to have his right leg below the knee amputated. He spent a year in a wheelchair.
Back on the Rock[edit]
DeMartino's first few times back on the rock were frustrating, but after several weeks of work, he got his rhythm back and stuck with it. Years later he began working with Paradox Sports and Adaptive Adventures so he could help others climb back from injury. . "I use my story as a catalyst to help people succeed amongst the chaos in their lives[4]," he said.
Setting Records[edit]
As an amputee, DeMartino has climbed El Capitan several times, including both the first onene-day ascent of the formation by an amputee, via The Nose, and on Zodiac, the first all-adaptive team ascent.
- First Amputee to climb Yosemite's El Capitan in under 24 hours.
- First amputee to climb the Nose of El Cap in under a day
- Leader of the First All Disabled Ascent of El Cap.
- Two Time National Paraclimbing Champion.
- Two Time Bronze Medal winner at the Paraclimbing World Championships.
A Sponsored Climber, Adaptive Athlete Instructor and Professional Speaker[edit]
As a climber for 30 years, today he works as a professional athlete and his sponsors include Evolv[5], Black Diamond[6] and Arc'Teryx[7]. He also works with Adaptive Adventures in Lakewood, Colorado, where he coaches amputees, paraplegics, quadriplegics, and the blind. Additionally, he works as a professional speaker. He speaks on:
- Overcoming and thriving in Adversity
- Defining your Goals and Reaching your Potential
- Leadership in Times of Crisis
- Embracing the New Normal
- Post Traumatic Growth
Videos and other Media[edit]
DeMartino is the subject of several films, including Gimp Monkeys, Craig's Reaction and The Problem Solvers: Out on a Limb. He's also featured on the Enormocast (podcast), Boulder Weekly[8], Adventure Journal[9], the REI Co-Op Journal. He also maintains a blog.
Writer and photographer[edit]
Since co-authoring his memoir After the Fall: A Climber's True Story of Facing Death and Finding Life in 2013, DeMartino went on to write for Climbing Magazine, Rock and Ice, and has an image published in Alpinist Magazine.
References[edit]
- ↑ Leuven, Chris Van (2012-11-05). "Building Perspective". Elevation Outdoors Magazine. Retrieved 2019-08-05.
- ↑ "After the Fall: A Climber's True Story of Facing Death and Finding Life". books.google.com. Retrieved 2019-08-05.
- ↑ Cahall, Fitz. "More Than Able". Climbing Magazine. Retrieved 2019-08-13.
- ↑ "Inside the world of adaptive rock climbing". Adventure Sports Network. 2017-06-22. Retrieved 2019-08-13.
- ↑ "Craig DeMartino". Team Evolv. Retrieved 2019-08-13.
- ↑ "Black Diamond". www.facebook.com. Retrieved 2019-08-13.
- ↑ "Craig Demartino | Athletes | Arc'teryx". Arc'teryx Equipment. Retrieved 2019-08-13.
- ↑ Miller, Elizabeth (2013-08-08). "Climber Craig DeMartino asks, What rock bottom?". Boulder Weekly. Retrieved 2019-08-13.
- ↑ Semi-Rad, Brendan Leonard (2011-09-16). "A Lesson on How to Live, From Amputee Climber Craig DeMartino". Adventure Journal. Retrieved 2019-08-13.
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