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Felix Berg

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Thank you for your review. I added new sources that confirm notable ascents - articles from the American Alpine Journal. As for the speed climbing notes, two are probably records and one is a very fast time, which - added to other achievements - confirms the climber's versatility (very rare in the world of mountaineering where usually climbers specialize themselves in only one discipline, such as rock climbing OR high-altitude mountaineering OR speed climbing.

Felix Berg (born december 19, 1980 in Berlin) is a German high-altitude mountaineer and rock climber. He has summitted four peaks of over 8,000 meters and seven peaks of over 7,000 meters. As an all-round climber he has also bolted and first ascended numerous lines in Africa and Europe. He works for his own company – SummitClimb.[1] in Switzerland.

Biography[edit]

He went to the Hermann-Ehlers high-school in Berlin. He studied mathematics and physics at the Free University of Berlin, as well as the University of Freiburg and graduated in 2007. He lives with his partner Magdalena and their daughter Fiona.

He started climbing at the age of 12 in Berchtesgadener Land in Bavaria.

Following high-school graduation in 2000 he went on his first high-altitude expeditions to South America and Himalaya. At the age of 23 he led an expedition to Mount Everest and reached the summit (May 29, 2004) as the first Berliner and the youngest German at that time[2]. In the years 2000s he first ascended numerous routes (difficulty ranging from 6a to 7c) on Mount Poi[3][4] and Mount Kenya in Africa where he also established a speed record in 2009[5].  

In February 2012 while working on a movie[6] with a German climber Robert Steiner in Grandes Jorasses in France, Felix Berg was heavily injured by a falling rock. After numerous surgeries and a period of convalescence, he started climbing routes 8a OS again and summited Broad Peak in 2014 (July 23) without using supplemental oxygen. In 2016 he carried out an attempt to climb the southeast ridge of Muztagh Tower in Pakistan[7].

In 2017 together with Rick Allen (Scotland) and Adam Bielecki (Poland) he summited Tilicho Peak. The international team also tried to reach the summit of Annapurna via a new route on the north-west face[8]. However, owing to bad weather conditions, the expedition was put to an end.

In 2018 he summited two eight-thousanders without using supplemental oxygen: Cho Oyu (May 13) and Gasherbrum II (July 16) together with Adam Bielecki, making what is arguably the first ascent of the true west face[9]

Notable ascents[edit]

8000 meter peaks[edit]

•  Mount Everest, 2004

•  Broad Peak, 2014

•  Cho Oyu, 2018

•  Gasherbrum II, 2018

Other high-altitude ascents[edit]

•  Ama Dablam, 2001 and 2016

•  Cholatse, 2009

•  Baruntse, 2010 and 2013

•  Muztagata, 2015

•  Peak Korzhenevskaya, 2015

•  Peak Ismoil Somoni, 2015

•  Tilicho Peak, 2017

•  Peak Lenin, 2017

•  Khan Tengri, 2017

•  Numerous ascents of Cotopaxi, Chimborazo and Illiniza

•  Numerous ascents of Mount Kilimanjaro and Mount Kenya

Rock climbing[edit]

•  First ascent on Mount Poi, Eastern Groove (7c, 700 m), Kenya, 2003

•  Multiple first ascents on Mount Kenya (from 6a to 7b, A1, max 300 m), Kenya, 2002-2014

•  Multi-pitch climbing OS up to 7c in the Alps

•  Sport climbing OS up to 8a i RP up to 8b

Speed climbing solo[edit]

•  Mount Kenya, summit of Nelion in 56 min and Batian in 1 hour 12 min, Kenya 2009

•  Les Courtes, north face, Swiss Route (TD-, up to 75°, 800m) in 1 hour 52min (to the summit), France, 2011

•  Les Droites, north face, Le Ginat, (ED, up to 85°, 1000m) in 2 hours 55min, France, 2011

References[edit]

  1. "Expeditionsleiter / Bergführer von SummitClimb". www.summitclimb.de (in Deutsch). Retrieved 2018-10-11.
  2. "Seven Summits on Everest on the 51st anniversary of the first ascent of Everest by Tenzing and Hillary: SummitClimb Mt Everest 2004". www.everestnews2004.com. Retrieved 2018-10-11. line feed character in |title= at position 73 (help)
  3. "2003 Mount Poi, Kenya | Be inspired | Imperial College London". www.imperial.ac.uk. Retrieved 2018-10-11.
  4. The American Alpine Journal, 2005. The Worlds's Most Significant Climbs. Golden, Colorado: American Alpine Club. 2005. p. 128. ISBN 978-0-930410-97-1. Search this book on
  5. "Speedy Ascent of Mount Kenya". Climbing Magazine. Retrieved 2018-10-11.
  6. Selig, wer in Träumen stirbt - Die Grandes Jorasses-Nordwand, retrieved 2018-10-11
  7. The American Alpine Journal 2017. The World's Most Significant Climbs. Golden, Colorado: American Alpine Club. 2017. p. 285. ISBN 978-1-933056-96-8. Search this book on
  8. "Canadian Louis Rousseau's New Annapurna Film - Gripped Magazine". Gripped Magazine. 2018-07-09. Retrieved 2018-10-11.
  9. "NEWS: Adam Bielecki and Felix Berg make First Ascent of Gasherbrum II West Face". Retrieved 2018-10-11.

New sources added.[edit]


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