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Edinburgh's Southside is an area of Scotland's capital city, between Edinburgh's historic Old Town, Holyrood Park and the neighbourhood of Newington.
The Southside housed much of Edinburgh's working class for the 150 years from 1800 to the early 1960s before planning decisions led to large scale demolition to accommodate the expansion of the university and creation of new road systems[2][3][4].
This demolition resulted in the movement of families to public housing in new estates on the outskirts of the city[2][5].
Demolition was halted due to changes in planning ideology which promoted redevelopment in its place[6].
In 1975 the Southside was designated by the City Council, as a Conservation Area and in 1995, part of the Southside was included in the UNESCO World Heritage site of the Old Town [7][8].
The southern boundary extends east from Causewayside through Salisbury Place, Salisbury Road and Holyrood Park Road; to Holyrood Park, encompassing St Leonard's[9][10][11][12][13].
History
Edinburgh was created as a royal burgh in 1124[14]. The Old Town of Edinburgh began as a collection of dwellings that developed along the Royal Mile. At this time, south of the Canongate was not significantly populated[15]. City Walls were built following the defeat of the Scots army at Flodden in 1513. People and commerce beyond these walls were excluded from city taxes and this encouraged growth south of the Royal Mile[16].
In 1766, the first planned housing development was George Square; terraced houses with private gardens. Further development included the New Town (1767) and construction of the South Bridge (1788), improving connection to the Southside[15][16][17][18][19]. In 1836 the opening of George IV Bridge increased commercial links with the Royal Mile and the New Town.[19].
In Victorian Edinburgh, industrial growth attracted rural Irish and European immigrants.[20][21] Housing, industry, education, worship and recreation were in close proximity. Consequently high density tenement housing such as the Dumbiedykes and St. Leonard's were constructed[22]. These were multiple flats in a single building, housing large, multi-generational families, and later destined to be condemned as slums[23][24].
Timeline of historic events which shaped the Southside
1621
Utilities
Edinburgh water originally supplied from the Boroughloch now supplied from Comiston.[25]
1628 - 1636
Expansion
Telfer Wall is built to extend the Edinburgh Town Walls with ports (gates) opened to The Pleasance and Buccleuch Street in the south.[22][26]
1647
Housing development
The 'Bird's eye view of Edinburgh in 1647' depicts, south of the city walls, scattered private houses and a substantial amount of development around Potterrow and The Pleasance.[22][27]
1722
Development
Thomas Hope of Rankeillor (Baronet) ordered greater drainage of the Boroughloch, taking lease of the land with the intention of making a park for citizens. The Edinburgh Improvement Act of 1827 secured the site of the old loch for the citizens of Edinburgh to pursue leisure and recreational activities. It became 'The Meadows'. [28][29][30]
1734
Housing development
Hermits and Termits - a house built in St Leonard's for historical artist David Scott, RSA.[31]
1746
Housing development
William Reid leased the ground from Lady Nicolson to build a home now known as Pear Tree House.[32]
1750
Housing development
Chapel House built as a family home by Robert Frame on Sir James Nicolson's land.[33]
1760
Housing development
Start of development of Adam, Argyll and Brown Squares.[22]
1762 - 1764
Connections
Nicolson Street built, linking the early housing developments and providing further development opportunities as Lady Nicolson released her land.[34][35]
1764
Development
Academy for the deaf and dumb established in 'Dumbie House'.The name 'Dumbiedykes' is based on this house in St Leonard's. [36]
1766
Housing development
George Square built, the first residential group of houses in the Southside.[22]
St Patrick Square and Montague and Rankeillor Street built.[7]
1814 - 1833
Housing Development
Main housing development in 'The Dumbiedykes' and 'St Leonards' - Brown Street, Arthur Street, Salisbury Street, Carnegie Street, Beaumont Place, Forbes Street and St. Leonard's Hill.[3][4]
1821
Industry
Bertrams, a major employer in the Southside, founded by brothers George and William Bertram, manufacturing paper-making machinery for worldwide export.[39][40]
1831
Industry
Usher's brewery business started in Chambers Street. [41]
1831
Industry
St. Leonard's Railway Station Edinburgh and Dalkeith Railway opened.[22][42]
McEwan Hall handed over to Edinburgh University.[22][54]
1900
Industry
Usher Hall completed and handed over to the city.[55][56]
1919
Industry
Bernard Terrace works created as Pillans and Wilson company premises.[57]
1939
War activity
500 allotments created in the East Meadows - the last evidence of them was removed by 1966.
1968
Industry
Nelsons printing and binding works and other interests sold to Morrison and Gibb, Parkside Printing Works in Dalkeith Road was closed and later demolished.[58][53]
1980
Industry
Bertrams business closed and the St Katherine's Works factory demolished.[59]
It was a neighbourhood of industry, housing, shops and local businesses [2][62][7][28]. Tenements were in a poor state, not maintained by their landlords, lacking sanitation and overcrowded [64][62][65].
The UK Government, the Scottish Office and Edinburgh Corporation produced legislation to address this housing crisis; defining the minimum habitable standard, increasing the housing stock and clearing slums [66][67][68][69][70][71].
From the 1920s to 1970s, multiple factors influenced Edinburgh City planning and specifically for the Southside[17][7].
Throughout this period, demolition was the preferred method of redeveloping neighbourhoods, and thousands of families were displaced mostly to new Corporation built housing on the periphery of the city[2][72][73]. This heavily impacted long-standing communities with a loss of local heritage[74][72][75].
Between 1950 and 1973, Edinburgh Corporation closed or demolished 16,556 homes and displaced 35,237 individuals[76].
The 1972 Town and Country Act introduced Local Plans and the mandatory involvement of residents [77][17][72]. This gave residents the opportunity to preserve the cultural identity of their neighbourhoods, an example was the Southside Association's influence in the reversal of the decision to demolish Nicolson Street[78][7].
Some of these proposals were realised (improved housing, expansion of University of Edinburgh) before planning policies changed to prioritise rehabilitation, protection of existing buildings and conservation.
Some proposals were abandoned (Eastern Link Road) but only after delays and demolition and dispersal of families to facilitate the proposals had occurred [7].
Planning proposals and decisions and their impact on the Southside
Demolition and redevelopment of housing (1931 – 1938).[17]
Part of the Pleasance, East Crosscauseway, Buccleuch Street, Simon Square, Gifford Park, St Patrick Square.[17][7]
1931
Corporation Plan for Central Edinburgh & Old Town.[63]
Frank Mears city plan[72]: 50 year vision, road network modernisation, new government, administrative and educational buildings, "Greater University", slum clearance.
Extensive clearances, renovation and new building across the city and Southside
Delayed due to financial crisis of 1931 and outbreak of war in 1939.[79]
Proposed: Clearly defined zones[84], dual carriageway with tunnel through the Old Town, road through Holyrood Park[85][7], University expansion[7], Bridges Bypass.[7]
Demolition of 'slum' districts[7] with two decades of demolition of housing and historic buildings.[7]
Comprehensive Development Area (St. Leonard's).[86]
Permission granted for University construction in George Square.[17][7]
...............................
1953
City & Royal Burgh of Edinburgh Development Plan.[86]
CDA for St. Leonard's/Dumbiedykes submitted to Secretary of State[17]
66 objections & public inquiry.
Secretary of State granted permission in 1955 (full plan by 1957).[87]
1954
Housing (Repairs and Rents) (Scotland) Act, Section 3.[69]
Additional powers of local authorities: Clearance Areas, purchase of houses liable to demolition, landlords responsible for repairs. Recovery of expenses by tenants in rendering houses fit for human habitation.
Initiated the slum clearance programme in Edinburgh.[88] Local authority required, within 1 year, to submit proposals to Secretary of State.
1956
City Planning Permission - University Expansion.[18]
Integration of scattered parts of the University with redevelopment of George Square and wider Southside.[72][17]
City and Royal Burgh of Edinburgh Development Plan.[89]
Comprehensive Development Area' specific to St Leonards (Dumbiedykes) - North zone 'educational and cultural', Southern zone residential. City-wide development focused on road networks[72], St. Leonard’s roundabout, Eastern Approach Road, Bridges Relief Road, Tollcross Link Road, University Medical School, Bus station.
Demolish housing along road routes - Canongate, Dumbiedykes, Arthur Street, St. Leonard’s Street, Holyrood Road, Potterow, Nicolson Street, Hope Park Terrace, George Square. [72] Dalkeith Road, Railway Yards, Tunnels under Arthur Street and Meadows, Displaced populations.
Tenement in Beaumont Place collapses with no fatalities. Owner attempted to sell in 1953 for a penny.
Raised in UK Parliament[92] and clearance areas declared around Carnegie Street.[93]
Evacuation of families. Rehousing of 250 people including evacuation of 10,12,14 and 15 Beaumont Place[94], Dalrymple Street, Dumbiedykes, St. Leonard's Hill[7]. Viability of shops in St. Leonard's under threat.
1961
Comprehensive Development Area “Mound/Lawnmarket” proposed by Edinburgh University.[82]
Renovation of New College and Old Town[82]. Re-development of 8 acres.
Did not obtain approval.
1961 - 1964
George Square demolition and redevelopment.[95][7][2][17]
Redevelopment of George Square, demolishing existing tenements to build modernist university buildings.[72]
Construction of the University Library, Appleton Tower & David Hume Tower. Destruction of Georgian buildings; 50% later to become a UNESCO World Heritage site.[8][96]
1962
Comprehensive Development Area “University/Nicolson Street”.[82]
Proposed by Edinburgh University.
“Historic tenements to be replaced by a new urban landscape of slab blocks…. creating a seamless continuum between the university and the city”.[72][7]
"The character of the area was to be annihilated. The whole fabric, history and community of the South Side were to be utterly destroyed".[4]
Not presented by Edinburgh Corporation (City Council) to the Scottish Secretary. Not approved; defunct in 1975.
1960 - 1963
University Comprehensive Development Area proposed.[97]
Joint plan to develop east of George Square to accommodate university growth and to create a larger 'campus area'.[72]
University proceeded with development but the Council did not.
Landmark study on urban transportation planning.[72]
Inner city ring road ; including bridges and flyovers.[72]
Demolition and clearance through central Edinburgh[2] affecting Pleasance, Bristo Dumbiedykes Road, Arthur Street. Revised proposals until bypass constructed between 1981 and 1990.
1965
Nicolson Street Comprehensive Development Area adopted by Edinburgh Corporation Planning.[71][72]
Previous proposal from Edinburgh University adopted and budgeted by Council.[101]
Parts of Nicolson Street[17]; 500 residents re-housed.
Nicholson Street considered an ‘obsolete development and bad layout’[72]. 1968 Action Area removed. 1974 Review approved. Period of uncertainty over plans for the Southside.
Concept of conservation areas introduced.[4] Protection and improvement of buildings of architectural or historic interest and of the character of these areas[18][72]. Statutory requirement to consider improvement not demolition.[104]
Impacted future proposals for a Southside Conservation Area in mid 1970s.
1967
Public Inquiry over 'Bridges Relief Road'.[18][4][72]
Six week inquiry on proposal for a double-level four lane road through the Southside. Recommendation by the Secretary of State for Scotland that Transport and Planning consultants be employed.[105]
Delayed or disrupted development or improvement in the Southside until study completed in 1972.
1968
Southside Action Area removed and Clearance Order approved.[4][18]
Secretary of State instructed that 1957 zonings be restored.[72] Edinburgh Corporation increased the annual target for houses to be demolished from 700 to 1,000.[4]
Highlighted by the Nicolson Street Traders' Association.[106] Council acquired and cleared Nicolson Street and adjacent areas.
Clearance of buildings in St. Leonard's and the Pleasance.
Community of 675 people displaced and businesses demolished. 276 200 year-old, three to six-storey houses, shops and pubs demolished.[107] East and West Adam Street, Richmond Place, Drummond Street, Ingliston Street, North Richmond Street.
1968
Forbes Street and St Leonard's Lane designated a Clearance Area.[4]
Different construction - squat buildings and narrow streets.
Forbes Street, St. Leonard's Lane; 310 houses cleared, 675 people displaced.[107]
All buildings demolished in zone bounded by Lothian Street, Bristo Street, Charles Street, Crichton Street and Potterow.[7][17] 270 people displaced ; car park created.
Formed to represent the people of the Southside (and oppose wholesale demolition)[110]. To counter University ambitions to establish CDA covering Meadows to St. Leonard's [110]. Influenced Public Inquiry re-proposed demolition of houses in West Nicolson Street.[110]
Secretary of State confirmed Compulsory Purchase Orders for demolition[110] . Plans placed under review.
Major change in City planning. Removed requirement for UK Government approval. Work in South Side proceeded on the basis of a Local Plan rather than a Comprehensive Development Plan.
Change of focus for planners, residents and traders
"at their core was the wish to create an environment satisfactory to the existing community".[72]
5,821 sub-standard properties, 41% to be demolished and 59% improved.[4] Properties recommended for improvement: Howden Street, Drummond Street, East Crosscauseway and High School Yards.
1974
South Side Advisory Panel[72] of Edinburgh University formed.
Bringing together all stakeholders to create a 'policy package'.[72]
Pilot study to assess feasibility of rehabilitating other housing areas in the Southside.[17]
Davie Street, West Richmond Street to be replaced in historic style.[17]
1977
Eastern Link Road plan abandoned.
Final attempt to build a major road through the Southside.
0.9 miles long, linking St Leonard's with Leith Walk via Calton Hill. Leith Street and Greenside demolished. Removed threat to Southside neighbourhood.
Partial restoration and rebuilding of a full street block on Nicolson Street.[17] Conservation and restoration of buildings replacing those beyond repair in a historic style to preserve the character of the area.[17]
Creation of 69 flats, a supermarket, 24 shops and a pub between East Crosscauseway and Richmond Street.
1995
Old and New Towns of Edinburgh designated as UNESCO Heritage Site.[7][8]
City's unique architectural and historical significance.[8]
Highlighting contrast and evolution between the medieval Old Town and 18th century Georgian New Town[8]
2002
South Side Conservation Area Character Appraisal.[18]
Scottish Ministers require Character Appraisals for areas before approving any new Article 4 Direction Orders.[18] Character appraisals to define special qualities and architectural and historic interests.[18]
Conservation Area status: demolition requires consent, and attention to character and appearance.
Addition of a group of category A listed buildings, with special architectural and historic importance.[112] Buildings having distinct character and significant value cited as good architectural styles.[112]
Additions: The Royal Commonwealth Pool, Scottish Widows building, Pollock Halls. Removed: Forbes Street , St Leonard’s Police Station.
Notable buildings in the Southside
The Southside has examples of Georgian and Victorian architecture and structures from the last 300 years.[113] Although many historic buildings were demolished in the 20th century, streets and public buildings remain which are a record of the Southside as an industrial area and cultural district. The designation of the Southside in 1975 as a conservation area ensured that a significant element of these historic buildings were protected.[114]
Royal Infirmary, First established in 1729 in Infirmary Street. In 1741 it moved into new premises designed by William Adam. It remained there until moving to Lauriston in 1879, a building which now houses the University's Futures Institute. [22][115]
Chapel House, Built in 1750 as a family home by Robert Frame on Sir James Nicolson's land. The house was let over time to a number of titled tenants until it became the family home of the Horners. Andrew Melrose, the tea merchant made it home for himself and his thirty apprentices and after his death in 1855, it became the Royal Maternity and Lying-In Hospital. It was here that Professor James Young Simpson first made use of chloroform in maternity cases. In 2025, it was being renovated as an education building for Edinburgh Central Mosque.[33][117]
File:Greekchurch - Lisa Sibbald.jpgBuccleuch Church - 1756Buccleuch Parish Church, Now St Andrew's Orthodox Church, was opened in 1756 as St Cuthbert's Chapel of Ease. In 1763, the ground around the chapel was made available for burials. One of the famous figures buried here is Deacon Brodie, respected citizen by day and housebreaker by night who was hanged at the Tolbooth in 1788.
George Square, Developed in 1766 to accommodate the aristocracy who began to look towards moving to houses in this new suburb beyond the city wall. Notable residents were Sir Arthur Conan Doyle and Sir Walter Scott. Only the west side remains intact after demolition to accommodate university expansion.
Buccleuch Place, As with George Square, Buccleuch Place was built by James Brown and is reminiscent of the tall 'lands' of the Old Town. Opposite the end of Buccleuch Place was Buccleuch Pend where, in 1787, Robert Burns lodged with Willie Nicol, the High School classics master.File:Archer's Hall Edinburgh.jpgArchers Hall - 1777
Archers' Hall, Established in Buccleuch Parish in 1777, it is the home of the sovereign's bodyguard in Scotland.
Heriot-Watt University, A College in Chambers Street from 1821 until its charter as a university in 1966 and move to the outskirts of town in 1992. [22]
New North Free Church, Built in 1848 and closed as a church in 1941. As Bedlam Theatre, has been a major venue for the Edinburgh Festival Fringe since 1980.
Buccleuch Free Church, The foundation stone was laid in 1855 and building was completed in 1857. The spire was given a new design in 1861 and is 174 feet high, getting it into the top 20 of the tallest buildings in Edinburgh. The building was restored between 1981 and 1985. [121]
Reid Concert Hall, Built in 1858 by a bequest from General John Reid, it contains the Galpin collection of old musical instruments. Musical performances are given regularly including an annual concert at which a piece composed by General Reid himself is played.
Edinburgh Festival Theatre, The former 'Empire' theatre, opened in 1892, although there has been a theatre on that site since 1830.
McEwan Hall, Gifted to Edinburgh University by brewer William McEwan. Graduation and other ceremonies are held here.
مسجد إدنبرة المركزيCentral MosqueFile:Nelson Hall - Lisa Sibbald.jpgNelson Hall 1913Nelson Hall, Local publishers, Nelsons, left funds for working class citizens in Edinburgh for leisure and cultural pursuits Four buildings were constructed throughout Edinburgh including, in 1913, Nelson Hall. The hall is in community use as part of the City of Edinburgh Council's Community Learning and Development section and it acts as the base for the Southside Heritage Group.[122][123]
Central Mosque, Stone-built in 1998 on land provided by the council. Six years in construction.
↑ 4.004.014.024.034.044.054.064.074.084.094.104.114.124.134.144.154.164.174.184.194.20Peacock, Helen; Emslie, Helen; Emslie, Douglas; Barratt, Oliver; Jones, Barry; et al. (Edinburgh University Rector's Working Party on Planning) (1974). Peacock, Helen, ed. Forgotten Southside - The Problems of Planning Blight in City Centre Living - A Plea for Action. Photography: Barry Jones, Steve Primeau Illustrations and Maps: Lindsay McEwan. Edinburgh: Edinburgh Edinburgh University Student Publications. pp. 7, 10, 12, 17, 25, 28, 30, 31, 32. ISBN9780950189048. Search this book on
↑Anderson, Robert David; Lynch, Michael; Phillipson, Nicholas (2003). The University of Edinburgh: an illustrated history. Edinburgh: Edinburgh University Press. p. 195. ISBN978-0-7486-1645-9. Search this book on
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↑ 16.016.1Gray, W Forbes (1942). "The Lands of Newington and Their Owners"(PDF). The Book of the Old Edinburgh Club, the Journal for Edinburgh History. Original Series 24: 152, 153 – via The Book of the Old Edinburgh Club.
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↑Handley, James Edmund (1943). The Irish In Scotland 1798 - 1845. Cork: Cork University Press. p. 83. Search this book on
↑T.B.M (1891). Slum life in Edinburgh; or, Scenes in its darkest places. Edinburgh: James Thin. p. 97. Search this book on
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↑Kerr, Henry F (1922). The Book of the Old Edinburgh Club, The Journal for Edinburgh History (Original Series, 11 ed.). Edinburgh: Old Edinburgh Club. p. 13. ISBN2634-2618 Check |isbn= value: length (help). Search this book on
↑Fleet, Christopher; MacCannell, Daniel (2014). Edinburgh: mapping the city. National Library of Scotland. Edinburgh: Birlinn. p. 66. ISBN978-1-78027-245-0. Search this book on
↑Fleet, Christopher; MacCannell, Daniel (2014). Edinburgh, Mapping The City. Newington Road Edinburgh: Birlinn Ltd. p. 169. ISBN978-1-78027-245-0. Search this book on
↑ 43.043.143.2Dictionary of Scottish business biography. 2: Processing, distribution, services, Aberdeen: Aberdeen Univ. Pr, 1990, ISBN978-0-08-030399-4 Page 201
↑Slaven, Anthony; Checkland, S. G.; Hamilton, Sheila, eds. (1986). Dictionary of Scottish business biography, 1860-1960. Aberdeen: Aberdeen University Press. p. 201. ISBN978-0-08-030398-7. Search this book on
↑Knight, Alex (2009). The Definitive History of The Heart of Midlothian Football Club. Edinburgh: Heart of Midlothian plc. p. 13. ISBN978-0-9564143-0-4. Search this book on
↑Thomas Nelson Publishers 1798-1998: honoring God, serving people. Nashville, TN: Thomas Nelson Publishers. 1998. p. 10. Search this book on
↑ 53.053.1Bell, Bill; Finkelstein, David; McCleery, Alistair, eds. (2007). The Edinburgh history of the book in Scotland. Edinburgh: Edinburgh University Press. p. 110. ISBN978-0-7486-1912-2. Search this book on
↑Fleet, Christopher; McDannell, Daniel (2014). Edinburgh: mapping the city. Edinburgh: Birlinn in association with the National Library of Scotland. p. 229. ISBN978-1-78027-245-0. Search this book on
↑ 71.071.1Edinburgh Corporation Town Planning Department (1966). Development plan 1965 : review : written statement / City and Royal Burgh of Edinburgh. Edinburgh: Edinburgh Corporation. pp. 12, 15. Search this book on
↑City and Royal Burgh of Edinburgh development plan : written statement. Edinburgh - National Library of Scotland catalogue of published resources: Edinburgh : City and Royal Burgh of Edinburgh. 1957. Search this book on
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↑Gillon, Jack; Parkinson, Fraser (2017). Edinburgh South Side Through Time. Stroud, Gloucester: Amberley Publishing. p. 52. ISBN978-1-4456-6166-7. Search this book on
David Fisher and Keith Smith (editors), Memories of Preston Street School and The Southside, 1988 - Reminiscences of the surviving Southside school and the contemporary living conditions.
Jack Gillon, Sixties Southside, self-published, 2023. Detailed neighbourhood and architecture pictures with supporting text.
Jack Gillon & Fraser Parkinson, Edinburgh South Side Through Time, Amberley Publishing, Stroud, 2017. A picture collection with descriptive text covering 100 years of development and redevelopment.
John G Gray (compiler), The South Side Story – An Anthology of the South Side of Edinburgh, W F Knox & Co Ltd, Glasgow, 1962. Historic focus on the early routes, significant buildings and the events which shaped the Southside, plus local newspaper adverts, black and white photos and plans.
Neil Palmer (editor), Memories of Nicolson Street Church, the Community Centre & the South Side, South Side Community Centre, 2007 - An introduction to the attempts made to save and revitalise the Southside.
Lisa Sibbald, Edinburgh’s Southside – History, People, Memories, self-published, 2020. Introduction to the Southside in a book which combines history, key buildings, workplaces, leisure, memories and up to date pictures.
Lisa Sibbald & Tom King, Edinburgh’s Southside – 1920s & 1930s, self-published, 2022. A photographic record of housing and living conditions with contemporary newspaper reports and articles covering many streets and buildings which were demolished as part of redevelopment.
Charles J Smith, Historic South Edinburgh, Birlinn 2023 (Originally published in 1980). An historical record of the development of the city to the south of the city walls, the book covers a much greater area than the Southside but provides context.
Keith Smith and Dorothy Finlay (editors), More Memories of Our South Side, The South Side Association, 1997 - Covers lost buildings, communities and activities impacted by redevelopment.
John Wishart, The Story of Nicolson Street Church of Scotland, 1953. Development of the main street in the Southside and key buildings.
External links
edinphoto.org is a key 'peoples' resource' for Southside pictures showing living conditions and recording events and memories.
National Library of Scotland[permanent dead link] A unique collection of 138 photographs of the Southside in 1929 by Alfred Henry Rushbrook, on behalf of the City of Edinburgh Improvement Trust.