Ashish Gupta
Ashish Gupta (born Delhi, 1973), known through his brand ASHISH, is an Indian-born and London-based fashion designer. His designs deploy hand-stitched beading and sequins in a rainbow palette and depict common patterns and motifs, including tie dye, camouflage, and crochet.
Early life and education
Born in Delhi, India, Ashish Gupta is the son of two doctors.[1] As a young adult, Gupta studied art and advertising in India.[2] He moved from Delhi to the UK, first earning a bachelor's degree from Middlesex University[3] and then continuing his studies at Central Saint Martins in 1996.[4] There, he received mentorship from course director Louise Wilson and graduated with a master's degree in 2000.
Career
In 2001, Gupta founded his eponymous label. ASHISH presented its first runway show at London Fashion Week in 2005.
Today his design studio is based in the Hackney neighborhood of East London. He divides his time between the London studio and his workshop in Delhi, India, where he works with a team of 40-50 artisans who make garments by hand.[5]
Themes
While Gupta's designs have featured elements of traditional British culture, many draw inspiration from South Asian and Indian culture. He has featured Rajasthani mirror-work or shisha, traditional block printing, Bandhani-style tie dye, and woven khadi.[6] For his Spring 2017 collection, he incorporated elements of Indian traditional dress like saris and lungis and alongside t-shirts and tracksuits,[7] a decision he described by saying, "I wanted to celebrate Indian culture, because it is also such an integral part of British culture."[8]
Gupta comments on gender and sexuality in his designs. For the Spring 2016 womenswear runway show, he engaged in gender fluid casting, including two male models who wore high heels and a peach-toned dress with surface design referring to a naked body.[9] His sequin-covered designs include stereotypically masculine styles, including a lumberjack shirt with a plaid rendered in sequins from 2010 and cargo pants and high-visibility construction vests from Fall 2013.
Awards and exhibitions
Gupta won the British Fashion Council NewGen award three times.[10]
For the label's tenth anniversary, Gupta mounted a runway show at the Victoria and Albert Museum on 23 October 2015, which was featured as part of the museum's Fashion in Motion Series.[11][12]
The spring 2019 exhibition "Camp: Notes on Fashion" at the Metropolitan Museum of Art featured two of Gupta's designs.[13] One was a sequin shirt with graphic lettering reading "Fall in love and be more tender," a nod to the Susan Sontag 1964 essay that inspired the exhibition.
In 2023, the William Morris Gallery presented the first major survey of Gupta's work, an exhibition titled "Ashish: Fall in Love and Be More Tender."[4]
His designs are also included in the permanent collection of the Texas Fashion Collection, which featured his work in the 2021 exhibition "Delight" and a two-part exhibition "Labor of Luxury" in 2024.[14]
Celebrity clients
A slew of celebrities have worn Gupta's designs, including: Beyonce, Debbie Harry, Hunter Schafer, Rhianna, Charlie XCX, Miley Cyrus, Sarah Jessica Parker, Katy Perry, Madonna, Victoria Beckham, Lily Allen, MIA, Patrick Wolff, Kelly Osbourne, and Jerry Hall.[15] He also designed outfits for Taylor Swift for the Taylor Swift's international Eras Tour in 2024.[16]
References
- ↑ Watson, Ellie Pithers,Simon (2020-12-21). "Inside fashion designer Ashish Gupta's home in London". Architectural Digest India. Retrieved 2024-07-11.
- ↑ Gustin, India (Nov 5, 2021). "Ashish Gupta: the backbone of the Indian social system is craftsmen". Lampoon Magazine. Retrieved July 11, 2024.
- ↑ "Designer Diaries: inclusivity is at the heart of everything this London label creates". www.stylist.co.uk. Retrieved 2024-07-11.
- ↑ 4.0 4.1 Mower, Sarah (2023-04-12). ""Fall in Love and Be More Tender"—The Ashish Retrospective at the William Morris Gallery Finds Joy in the Subversive". Vogue. Retrieved 2024-07-11.
- ↑ "From Tom Ford to Giles Deacon, behind the scenes of fashion studios in London". The Independent. 2017-03-09. Retrieved 2024-12-17.
- ↑ "Ashish Gupta: "Equality has always been part of the world I was imagining"". Harper's BAZAAR. 2023-03-15. Retrieved 2024-12-17.
- ↑ Cummings, Faith (2016-09-30). "How One Fashion Show CELEBRATED Indian Culture Instead of Appropriating It". Teen Vogue. Retrieved 2024-07-11.
- ↑ Leitch, Luke (2016-09-19). "Ashish Spring 2017 Ready-to-Wear Collection". Vogue. Retrieved 2024-07-11.
- ↑ Leitch, Luke (2015-09-22). "Ashish Spring 2016 Ready-to-Wear Collection". Vogue. Retrieved 2024-12-17.
- ↑ "Ashish Gupta: "Equality has always been part of the world I was imagining"". Harper's BAZAAR. 2023-03-15. Retrieved 2024-12-17.
- ↑ Victoria and Albert Museum (2015-11-09). Fashion in Motion / ASHISH behind the scenes. Retrieved 2024-07-11 – via YouTube.
- ↑ Azhar, Rohaizatul (2015-10-23). "Ashish Marks 10-Year Anniversary With a Catwalk Show at Victoria & Albert Museum". WWD. Retrieved 2024-07-11.
- ↑ "Camp: Notes on Fashion". The Metropolitan Museum of Art. Retrieved 2024-07-11.
- ↑ "Past Exhibitions and Events | Texas Fashion Collection". tfc.cvad.unt.edu. Retrieved 2024-07-11.
- ↑ club-565487-2023-04-14 "From Rihanna to Taylor Swift, here's why designer Ashish Gupta's bold designs have a diverse fan club" Check
|url=value (help). Harper Bazar. Retrieved 2024-12-17. - ↑ "She Never Goes Out of Style! See Taylor Swift's New Eras Tour Outfits in Europe". People.com. Retrieved 2024-12-17.
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