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Performance (textiles)

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Performance in textiles is the ability of textiles to respond against certain conditions and environments.[1] This ability belongs to various attributes of textiles. The different physical properties support them in specific sections of applications (clothing, sports, upholstery, workwear, and industry use) that need diverse performance parameters. Regular textile products can impart comfort and protection from basic elements such as cold, heat, and rain.[2] Whereas technical textiles are functional-focused textiles suitable for extreme conditions when used in protective clothing, workwear, medical and agriculture, etc.[3]

For example, simple snagging and fading are performance related to the regular textiles. Colorfastness against light is another criterion of the performance of textile products. Similarly, tensile strength, shrinkage, bleeding, and hand feel are among the other few performance parameters. The performance is desired by the producers, buyers of the textile products, including target market expectations.[1] [4][5]

These performance expectatios are entirely different with High performance textiles. Due to the often highly technical and legal requirements of these products, these textiles are typically tested in order to ensure they meet stringent performance requirements.

For example, an antiviral textiles are a further exploitation of using antimicrobial surfaces that are applicable to both natural and synthetic textiles. Exhibiting antiviral properties, these surfaces may inactivate the lipid coated viruses.[6] There are particular test methods for assessing the performance of antiviral textiles.[7]

Factors[edit]

Performance of textile products is primarily based on fiber and fabric structure. Performance could be further enhanced to achieve higher degrees of performance with specific finishing methods, functional finishes, fit, and product design .[8] [9]

Fibers Properties[edit]

Natural and Synthetic fibers share unique properties that influence the final textile performance. Natural fibers are suitable for comfort, where synthetics are better for aesthetics and durability. Performance characteristics are in-built or incorporated in the textile materials.

In-built (natural) properties[edit]

Fiber engineering[edit]

Fiber properties impact example is an Aramid fiber, namely Kevlar, a strong, abrasion-resistant, durable material with high performance. Fiber and fabric engineering can optimize the functionality of the materials.[11]

Finishing methods[edit]

Finishing improves appearance and performance.[12] Finishing processes like heat-setting makes cloths stable. Mercerization, treatments with enzymes (bio polishing) and napping, can alter the surface and the performance of the treated textiles. Mercerized cotton material will be lustrous, absorb more dye, and have a smoother surface than conventional cotton. A napped cloth feels softer. Singeing improves pilling.

Functional finishes[edit]

Functional finishes enable treated textiles with different characteristics, which may be opposite to their natural or inherent nature. Functional finishes add value other than handfeel and aesthetics.[1] Moisture wicking is an example of functional finish that enhance the wearer's comfort.[1] Certain finishes can alter the performance suiting for thermal comfort (thermal regulation), antimicrobial, UV protection, easy care (crease resistant cotton fabrics), and insect repellant etc. [13]

Standards[edit]

Standards vary with the use and application areas. Military textiles, industrial textiles have separate tests to analyze performance in extreme conditions.[14] Different countries have their own performance standards for various textile products.[15] American National Standards Institute approves the textile performance standards set by ASTM International.[16]

Function of textiles[edit]

The performance in textiles extends functionality through comfort and protection.

Comfort[edit]

Comfort is related to various perceptions, physiological, social, and psychological needs, and after food, clothing is one of the significant objects that suffices comfort requirements.. Clothes provide aesthetic comfort, thermal comfort, moisture comfort, tactile comfort, and pressure comfort.[17]

  • Aesthetic comfort: Color, style, garment fitting, fashion compatibility, fabric construction, and finish of clothing material satisfies visual perception. Aesthetic comfort is necessary for psychological and social comfort.[18][19][20]
  • Thermal comfort: The heat dissipation efficiency of clothes transfers a "neither too hot nor too cold" feeling to the wearer. The human body remains in comfort around 30 °C.[21] Secondly clothing acts as a buffer against environmental changes and maintain a thermal balance between the heat generated by the body and the heat lost to the environment while allowing the skin to remain free of liquids released from the body such as perspiration. Thermal comfort is one major criterion of physiological needs.[22]
  • Moisture comfort: The preservation from the sensation of dampness. A study Hollies infers, when more than 50–65% of the body surface is wet, it feels uncomfortable.[23][24]
  • Tactile comfort: The tactile comfort is related to the friction between the clothes and the body. It is associated with smoothness, roughness, softness, and stiffness of clothing material. The degree of tactile discomfort may vary with individuals, and it may be caused by an allergy, clinging to the skin, tickling, prickling, abrasion of the skin and coolness: the fabric weight, structure, thickness. There are certain surface finishes (mechanical and chemical) which can enhance tactile comfort. For example, napped fleece sweatshirt and velvet clothes. Some of the terms that describe the tactile sensations are clingy, sticky, scratchy, prickly, soft, stiff, heavy, light and hard.[25][26]
  • Pressure comfort: It is the comfort of the human body's pressure receptors' (present in skin) sensory response towards clothing. Fabric with lycra feels more comfortable because of this response and superior pressure comfort. The sensation response effected by the snug, loose, heavy, lightweight, soft, and stiff structure of the material.[27][28]

Protection[edit]

Protection in textiles refers to a large application area where the performance (of functionality) is more central than aesthetic values.

  • UV protection performance in textiles,[29]There are tests to quantify the protection values from harmful Ultraviolet rays.[30]
  • Flame retardant textiles.[31]
  • Warer repellant performance of textiles.[32]
  • Water proofness.[33]
  • Cold and wind protective textiles.[33]
  • Bacteria and virus protection in textiles.[6]
  • Bulletproof vest

See also[edit]

  • Clothtech, technical textiles for clothing and footwear applications.

References[edit]

  1. 1.0 1.1 1.2 1.3 Kadolph, Sara J. (1998). Textiles. Internet Archive. Upper Saddle River, N.J. : Merrill. pp. 9, 11, 22, 23, 25, 392, 408, 407. ISBN 978-0-13-494592-7. Search this book on
  2. Tobler-Rohr, Marion I. (2011-06-27). Handbook of Sustainable Textile Production. Elsevier. p. 224. ISBN 978-0-85709-286-1. Search this book on
  3. Scott, Richard A. (2005-10-30). Textiles for Protection. Elsevier. p. 151. ISBN 978-1-84569-097-7. Search this book on
  4. Fulton, Robert E. (1988). Managing Engineering Data: Emerging Issues : Presented at the 1988 ASME International Computers in Engineering Conference and Exhibition, July 31-August 4, 1988, San Francisco, California. American Society of Mechanical Engineers. p. 120. Search this book on
  5. Kawabata, S.; Niwa, Masako (1989-01-01). "Fabric Performance in Clothing and Clothing Manufacture". The Journal of the Textile Institute. 80 (1): 19–50. doi:10.1080/00405008908659184. ISSN 0040-5000.
  6. 6.0 6.1 Iyigundogdu, Zeynep Ustaoglu; Demir, Okan; Asutay, Ayla Burcin; Sahin, Fikrettin (2017). "Developing Novel Antimicrobial and Antiviral Textile Products". Applied Biochemistry and Biotechnology. 181 (3): 1155–1166. doi:10.1007/s12010-016-2275-5. PMC 7091037 Check |pmc= value (help). PMID 27734286.
  7. "A quantitative test method to assess the antiviral performance". www.iso.org. Retrieved 2021-06-14. Unknown parameter |url-status= ignored (help)
  8. Kadolph, Sara J. (1998). Textiles. Internet Archive. Upper Saddle River, N.J. : Merrill. pp. 9, 11. ISBN 978-0-13-494592-7. Search this book on
  9. "Performance Textile - an overview | ScienceDirect Topics". www.sciencedirect.com. Retrieved 2021-06-13.
  10. Kadolph, Sara J. (2007). Textiles. Internet Archive. Upper Saddle River, N.J. : Pearson Prentice Hall. p. 53. ISBN 978-0-13-118769-6. Search this book on
  11. O'Mahony, Marie (2002). Sportstech : revolutionary fabrics, fashion and design. Internet Archive. New York, NY : Thames & Hudson. ISBN 978-0-500-51086-5. Search this book on
  12. Kadolph, Sara J. (2007). Textiles. Internet Archive. Upper Saddle River, N.J. : Pearson Prentice Hall. pp. 330, 331. ISBN 978-0-13-118769-6. Search this book on
  13. "Functional finishes for high-performance apparel". High-Performance Apparel: 129–156. 2018-01-01. doi:10.1016/B978-0-08-100904-8.00006-7.
  14. Wang, Lijing (2016-06-17). Performance Testing of Textiles: Methods, Technology and Applications. Woodhead Publishing. ISBN 978-0-08-100578-1. Search this book on
  15. Institute, United States of America Standards (1968). USA Standard Performance Requirements for Textile Fabrics. The Institute. Search this book on
  16. Tortora, Phyllis G.; Collier, Billie J. (1997). Understanding textiles. Internet Archive. Upper Saddle River, NJ : Merrill. pp. 20, 21. ISBN 978-0-13-439225-7. Search this book on
  17. Song, Guowen (2011). Improving Comfort in Clothing. Woodhead Publishing. p. 22. ISBN 9780857090645. Search this book on
  18. Song, Guowen (2011). Improving Comfort in Clothing. Woodhead Publishing. p. 440. ISBN 9780857090645. Search this book on
  19. "Aesthetic Comfort - an overview | ScienceDirect Topics". www.sciencedirect.com. Retrieved 2021-05-30.
  20. Lyle, Dorothy Siegert (1982). Modern textiles. Internet Archive. New York : Wiley. p. 29. ISBN 978-0-471-07805-0. Search this book on
  21. Gagge, A. P.; Stolwijk, J. A. J.; Hardy, J. D. (1967-06-01). "Comfort and thermal sensations and associated physiological responses at various ambient temperatures". Environmental Research. 1 (1): 1–20. Bibcode:1967ER......1....1G. doi:10.1016/0013-9351(67)90002-3. PMID 5614624.
  22. Song, Guowen (2011). Improving Comfort in Clothing. Woodhead Publishing. pp. 149, 166. ISBN 9780857090645. Search this book on
  23. Au, K.F. (2011). Advances in Knitting Technology. Woodhead Publishing. ISBN 9781845693725. Search this book on
  24. Song, Guowen (2011). Improving Comfort in Clothing. Woodhead Publishing. pp. 167, 192, 208. ISBN 9780857090645. Search this book on
  25. Song, Guowen (2011). Improving Comfort in Clothing. Woodhead Publishing. pp. 223, 235, 237, 427. ISBN 9780857090645. Search this book on
  26. Das, A.; Alagirusamy, R. (2011-01-01). "Improving tactile comfort in fabrics and clothing". Improving Comfort in Clothing: 216–244. doi:10.1533/9780857090645.2.216. ISBN 9781845695392.
  27. Song, Guowen (2011). Improving Comfort in Clothing. Woodhead Publishing. pp. 25, 235, 432. ISBN 9780857090645. Search this book on
  28. "Pressure Comfort - an overview | ScienceDirect Topics". www.sciencedirect.com. Retrieved 2021-05-30.
  29. Ray, Amal; Singha, Kunal; Pandit, Pintu; Maity, Subhankar (2020-01-01). "Advanced ultraviolet protective agents for textiles and clothing". Advances in Functional and Protective Textiles: 243–260. doi:10.1016/B978-0-12-820257-9.00011-4. ISBN 9780128202579.
  30. Paul, Roshan (2014-10-20). Functional Finishes for Textiles: Improving Comfort, Performance and Protection. Elsevier. p. 481. ISBN 978-0-85709-845-0. Search this book on
  31. Pan, N.; Sun, G. (2011-06-21). Functional Textiles for Improved Performance, Protection and Health. Elsevier. pp. 99–125. ISBN 978-0-85709-287-8. Search this book on
  32. Mansdorf, Seymour Zack; Sager, Richard (1988). Performance of Protective Clothing: Second Symposium. ASTM International. ISBN 978-0-8031-1167-7. Search this book on
  33. 33.0 33.1 Williams, J. T. (2009-09-29). Textiles for Cold Weather Apparel. Elsevier. p. 222. ISBN 978-1-84569-717-4. Search this book on


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