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Cottage pie

From EverybodyWiki Bios & Wiki
(Redirected from Shepherd's pie)

Shepherd's pie
Shepherd's pie served with peas,
a common accompaniment
Alternative namesCottage pie, hachis Parmentier
TypeMeat pie
Place of originBritain and France
Main ingredientsMashed potato with minced meat
VariationsCumberland pie,
Shepherdess pie

Shepherd's pie, cottage pie, or in French cuisine hachis Parmentier, is a savoury dish of cooked minced meat topped with mashed potato and baked, formerly also called Sanders or Saunders. The meat used may be either previously cooked or freshly minced. The usual meats are beef or lamb. The terms shepherd's pie and cottage pie have been used interchangeably since they came into use in the late 18th and early 19th centuries, although some writers insist that a shepherd's pie should contain lamb or mutton, and a cottage pie, beef.

History

Shepherd's pies for sale
Shepherd's pie in an English restaurant

Cottage pie

The term was in use by 1791. Parson Woodforde mentions "Cottage-Pye" in his diary entry for 29 August 1791 and several times thereafter. He records that the meat was veal but does not say what the topping was.[1] The dish was known in its present form, though not under the same name, in the early 19th century: in 1806 Maria Rundell published a recipe for "Sanders", consisting of the same ingredients as cottage or shepherd's pie: minced beef or mutton, with onion and gravy, topped with mashed potato and baked as individual servings.[2][n 1] Sanders or Saunders could also have a filling of sliced meat.[4][n 2] According to Jane Grigson in English Food, mincing originally meant chopping something with a knife. "But with the first mincing-machines, prison, school and seaside boarding house cooks acquired a new weapon to depress their victims, with watery mince, shepherd's pie with rubbery granules of left-over meat."[6]

In 20th-century and later use the term cottage pie has widely, but not exclusively, been used for a dish of chopped or minced beef with a mashed potato topping.[7][n 3] In his 2012 book The Diner's Dictionary, John Ayto writes:

In present-day English, cottage pie is an increasingly popular synonym for shepherd's pie, a dish of minced meat with a topping of mashed potato. Its widening use is no doubt due in part to its pleasantly bucolic associations, in part to the virtual disappearance of mutton and lamb from such pies in favour of beef.[10]

The meat may be fresh or previously cooked;[7] the latter was at one time more usual. Well into the 20th century the absence of refrigeration made it expedient in many domestic kitchens to store cooked meat rather than raw. In the 1940s the chef Louis Diat recalled of his childhood days, "when housewives bought their Sunday meat they selected pieces large enough to make into leftover dishes for several days".[11] Modern recipes for cottage pie typically use fresh beef.[7]

Shepherd's pie

A recipe for shepherd's pie published in Edinburgh in 1849 in The Practice of Cookery and Pastry specifies cooked meat of any kind, sliced rather than minced, covered with mashed potato and baked.[12] In the 1850s the term was also used for a Scottish dish that contained a mutton and diced potato filling inside a pastry crust.[13] Neither shepherd's pie nor cottage pie was mentioned in the original edition of Mrs Beeton's Household Management in 1861.[14]

More recently "shepherd's pie" has generally been used for a potato-topped dish of minced lamb. According to the Oxford Companion to Food, "In keeping with the name, the meat should be mutton or lamb; and it is usually cooked meat left over from a roast".[7] As with beef, it was commonplace in the days before refrigeration to cook a Sunday joint to last in various guises throughout the week. Dorothy Hartley quotes a traditional verse, "Vicarage mutton", showing not only the uses to which the joint was put, but also the interchangeability of the terms "shepherd's" and "cottage" pie:

     Hot on Sunday,
     Cold on Monday,
     Hashed on Tuesday,
     Minced on Wednesday,
     Curried Thursday,
     Broth on Friday,
     Cottage pie Saturday.[15]

Hachis Parmentier

The dish hachis Parmentier is named after Antoine-Augustin Parmentier, who popularised the potato in French cuisine in the late 18th century.[7] It is documented from the late 19th century.[n 4] It is usually made with chopped or minced lamb or beef; in either case it may be made with either fresh or left-over cooked meat. (The modern English term "hash" derives from the French hachis, meaning food "finely chopped".)[17][n 5]

In some recipes a layer of sauté potatoes is put in the cooking dish before the meat filling and mashed potato topping are added.[19] A more elaborate version by Auguste Escoffier, named hachis de boeuf à Parmentier, consists of baked potatoes, the contents of which are removed, mixed with freshly-cooked diced beef, returned to the potato shells and covered with sauce lyonnaise.[20]

See also

Notes, references and sources

Notes

  1. ↑ In 1845 Eliza Acton published her recipe for "Saunders", similar to Rundell's, but with a layer of mashed potato underneath the minced meat as well as one on top. Like Rundell, she uses pre-cooked meat but adds, "A very superior kind of saunders is made by substituting fresh meat for roasted; but this requires to be baked an hour or something more".[3]
  2. ↑ The name "Saunders" is still used in at least one cookery book for a similar dish made with corned beef.[5]
  3. ↑ The Oxford English Dictionary defines "cottage pie" as "A dish of minced beef or (occasionally) other meat which has been topped with mashed potato and then baked or browned.[8] Jane Grigson noted that to make the dish go further some recipes put in a bottom layer of potato before adding the meat and top layer.[9]
  4. ↑ It is listed on a bistro menu in Le Petit Moniteur universel, 29 June 1892: "Escargots. Fraise de veau. Ravigotte. Navarin pommes. Salé aux choux. Hachis Parmentier. Œufs, saucisses. Poulet rôti chaud".[16]
  5. ↑ In his Grand dictionnaire de cuisine (1873) Alexandre Dumas wrote, "When you have veal, beef, chicken, game or scraps of meat left over from dinner the night before, all you have to do is chop these left-overs neatly, and there are tools for that, until the whole forms a complete mixture."[18]

References

  1. ↑ Woodforde (Vol III), p. 295; and (Vol V), pp. 335, 347, 371, 378, 389, 393 and 410
  2. ↑ Rundell, p. 39
  3. ↑ Acton, p. 195
  4. ↑ Hughes, p. 49
  5. ↑ Crook, p. 84
  6. ↑ Grigson (1992), p. 141
  7. ↑ 7.0 7.1 7.2 7.3 7.4 Saberi, p. 717
  8. ↑ "cottage pie". Oxford English Dictionary (3rd ed.). Oxford University Press. September 2005. (Subscription or UK public library membership required.)
  9. ↑ Grigson (1984), p. 70
  10. ↑ Ayto, p. 99
  11. ↑ Diat, p. 83
  12. ↑ Williamson, p. 65
  13. ↑ Dallas, pp. 255–256
  14. ↑ Beeton, index pp. viii–ix, xiii and xxx
  15. ↑ Hartley, p. 160
  16. ↑ Anfossi, Marc. "Un bistro – fin de siècle", Le Petit Moniteur universel, 29 June 1892, p. 2, column 5
  17. ↑ "hash". Oxford English Dictionary (3rd ed.). Oxford University Press. September 2005. (Subscription or UK public library membership required.)
  18. ↑ Dumas, p. 619
  19. ↑ Saulnier, p. 143
  20. ↑ Escoffier, p. 391

Sources

External links


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